1- Is it really non-toxic? Unicone Art uncured resin isn’t toxic, it is hazardous and it may give you an allergic reaction but it is not toxic.
The un-cured resin can irritate your skin and with repeated use, can sensitize your skin, which in some people, can give allergic dermatitis. Limited skin contact is recommended. Wear gloves! Resin is unhealthy for your skin.
If resin does get on your skin - use a cleanser like our Magical Resin Remover.
It does not contain alcohol, which can be harmful to your skin.
2- When used as directed, our resin does not release fumes. That means when combining the resin and hardener alone, it will not off-gas. If you are adding colorants or other foreign object to your resin - we can not vouch for it's safety. Those additions will change the chemical makeup of our resin.
3- If adding heat to our resin in the form of a heat gun or torch - fumes may be released. When the resin cures, it naturally gives off heat. If that chemical reaction is sped up, fumes may occur.
In the above cases a respirator is recommended. It is also recommended to use our resin in a well-ventilated room. We advise you to use your own judgement and always err on the side of caution.
Safe testing results based on RESINOUS AND POLYMERIC COATINGS – FDA 21 CFR 175.300
Please see the Safety Data section at the footer of each page for safety regarding our Resin Epoxy selection.
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Top Art Resin Questions
Mix your Art resin in 1:1 ratio.
Mix your Geode Doming resin in 1:1 ratio.
Mix your Masterclass resin in 2:1 ratio.
Stir together slowly for at least 3 minutes.
Make sure that you don't see anymore "threading" in the resin mixture and that it is mixed thoroughly.
Let sit for a few minutes for the bubbles to dissipate before pouring.
There is approximately a 30 minute work time before gelling/thickening starts to occur.
Our Art resin is 98% cured after 24 hours and fully cured within 72 hours depending on thickness. Curing time will differ when adding a colorant like alcohol ink.
Our Masterclass Deep Pour Resin: 4-6 hour work time 36-48 hour gel time 48 hour surface touch time 72-96 hour full cure
Unicone Art resin contains UV stabilizers and anti-yellowing properties, it is one of the clearest resins out there. Any resin will yellow though, if exposed continuously to bright sunlight and UV rays.
Our resin conforms to ASTM D-4236 and REACH standards. Please see our "Resin Safety Statement" above and the safety data linked at the footer of the page.
Our resin has extremely low to no odor!
An open Unicone Art Resin bottle stays fresh for about 6 months, or 2 years if unopened.
Cured Unicone Art resin should not be placed in an environment with temperatures that exceed 120°F Do not place an art piece in an oven or microwave. Use as a coaster is perfectly ok. We do not recommend that you use your art piece as a trivet for something that comes out of the oven.
Our Resin is food safe, as a coaster, platter or serving tray once completely cured.
You can use with hot cups or plates of hot food, but we do not recommend use directly with very hot food.
Do not put your cured item in a microwave, oven or dishwasher.
The maximum temperature should not exceed 50℃ /122℉.
Our original formula resin is a "Hard Resin". It has a Shore hardness of 78D.
Please see Masterclass info below
1) The first is to pour your initial layer, cover and wait 5-6 hours until your Resin is really jelling. At this point, you can pour on the next 1/8" layer, cover, wait 5-6 hrs and repeat until you reach the height you desire.
2) The second option is to allow the first layer to fully dry, then give the overall piece a light sanding, and then pour on the next 1/8" layer, cover and let cure. You can repeat this as many times as you like.
It's recommended to torch or use a heat gun to release the bubbles before adding each layer.
Cloudy, foggy, filmy, hazy, watermarks... whatever you call it, it's not what you want in your resin finish. It's called "Amine Blushing".
It occurs when there is humidity or slight moisture in the air or in an inclusion that you put in you resin. (flowers or insects that haven't completely dried)
It can also occur if you are curing in an environment that is too cold.
Basically - optimal resin working environment is room temperature and low-humidity.
How to prevent it:
Room temperature, approximately 72-77F
Anything below 85% relative humidity is fine, ideally between 50-60%,
Make sure that your resin is sealed properly in between uses, so moisture doesn't seep into the container. No dips in temperature during the first 24hrs.
Using a fan heater in the Winter and a dehumidifier in warmer weather can help.
Before mixing another batch in a cold environment, you can try slightly warming the resin in a warm water bath first. (Note: this may shorten your work time.) Be aware as well, that using a hot torch in this environment can affect the resin as well.
Do not mix less than 1oz. of resin and hardener at a time. The exotherm nature will be reduced.
You can sand to remove the Amine Blushing and re-coat your project with resin or gently buff and polish with clear car wax.
Opened containers should be used within 6 months.
Torching your resin can cause scorching, burning and discoloration. Use with care. A heat gun is preferred.
For best results, pour in layers of 1/8 inch in thickness. This will prevent overheating and bubbles. You should not make a piece of art that will be thinner than 1/3 inch - it may not cure properly and will be bendable.
Basically… it depends.
Mixing larger amounts at once will make your resin cure faster.
Resin cures faster when it gets too hot.
When mixing larger batches - this tends to be an issue.
Factors that make the difference- temperature of your environment as well as the size of your mixing cup.
You don’t want to pour too much at once. Pouring in layers of about 1/8 inch at a time is best.
Resin Tips & Tricks
Make sure the surface is completely clean and dry first. For the strongest bond, we suggest lightly sanding the stainless steel with 80 grit sandpaper before coating with the resin epoxy.
Let Resin sit for at least 5 minutes after mixing. The resin will thicken and the bubbles will disperse.
Oily residue repels resin, so it won't cover the surface.
If your painting contained silicone, it is very important to wipe off excess oil to prepare the surface before spreading on the resin.
A pro tip: you can use baby powder to absorb the oils. Make sure to wipe of excess before pouring your resin.
When handling your project, wearing gloves is recommended.
Crystallization may occur.
Heat will bring the resin back to a usable state, and the best way to warm the resin is to place the tightly sealed containers into a warm water bath.
There are many ways to color your resin.
1. Mica pigment powders are the number 1 - best way. A dry powder will not affect the curing process.
2. Resin pastes formulated for resin are a beautiful tinting method
3. Acrylic paint - in very small amount is ok. Moisture/water will affect the curing process
4. Acrylic ink is a thinner version of paint and will tint your resin nicely.
5. Alcohol ink dropped in before the resin is poured or after makes 2 beautiful affects "The Petri" is a very popular resin craft.
6. Objects - beads, glitter, sprinkles, flowers and found objects can all be used in your resin.
Tumblers are only recommended for very experienced resin artists. Our resin is extremely thin and may slide away from the surface of your tumbler.
1-Let the Unicone Resin sit for at least 10-15 minutes to start to thicken up after the resin and hardener are mixed together. Our resin has a thin viscosity and might be pulling away from your tumbler because of that.
2- How slow is the tumbler rotating? Maybe it’s going slow enough to allow the resin to completely pull away from the surface.
3- Make sure the spray you applied to prime the tumbler doesn’t have anything leaching into the resin to thin it. Wait 24 hours after spraying your tumbler before applying the resin to make sure it’s a completely dry surface. Krylon Triple Glaze Clear Coat is a good brand to try.
4- Use a heat gun to force bubbles to rise to the surface.
It is best to either...
1. Do a thin skim coat first. This will fill the micro holes and prevent air bubbles forming in your final project.
2. Coat with a base of primer and let completely dry before you resin.
If your whole resin piece did not cure properly, it may stick to your silicone mold. Place it in the freezer and you should be able to pop the hardened resin right out.
If just a little bit of hardened resin wont come out, place your mold in a hot, soapy water bath (NOT boiling) for a few minutes, the resin should soften and be able to come out.
Items being put into resin definitely need to be completely dry first.
Anything that has moisture in it will affect the resin curing process as well as the item itself.
The item will continue to decompose, change color and may get moldy as well.
You can dry your foliage by flattening in a book or if you want the full look, by using silica beads. You can also hang your flowers to dry. Each of these methods will work and offer different results.
Mixing your resin slowly and carefully and pouring your resin slowly - will help prevent bubbles. If you have bubbles to get rid of - a heat source like heat gun or torch over your project will help bubble dissipate. A toothpick can easily pop a bubble or two and avoid using heat that may damage your mold.
Masterclass Deep Pour Resin Questions
Let your piece cure for at least 72 hours.
Surface dry is at approximately 48 hours.
You have about 4-6 hours until gelling starts to occur. Official gel time is 36-48 hours
Pour in stages with no pour thicker than 4 inches. Minimum pour depth is 1/2”.
Measure 2:1 that's 2 parts A (resin) to 1 part B (hardener)
This is a hard resin, the Hardness Shore is 81D
Masterclass Deep Pour should be stored at 70-80°F for at least 24 hours before use.
This depends on the size of your project. You can pour as deep as 4" and as minimal as 1/2" depth
You do not have to wait until fully cured. You can pour a new layer, once the current layer has "tacked" up.
If the previous layer has fully cured - sand with a fine grit (220) sandpaper. Wipe down with an alcohol wipe. Pour your next layer.
Mold Making Silicone
Easily mixed, 1A:1B by weight. It is best to use a small scale for accuracy.
Pour Part A into a cup
Pour Part B into a cup
Mix part A
Mix part B
Combine the two parts and then mix for at least 2 minutes (scraping the sides) Making sure you mix completely until you see a uniform color.
Work time is 30-40 minutes.
Cure time is 3-5 hours at room temperature.
Use in a properly ventilated area.
Wear safety glasses
Wear vinyl gloves - latex gloves may inhibit the curing process.
Store and use material at room temperature (73°F/23°C).
Warmer temperatures will drastically reduce work and cure time.
Product should be used as soon as possible once opened.
Unopened shelf-life is 12 months when stored properly.
Soap and water will gently clean your mold.
A bit of sticky tape will remove any glitter or lint stuck to you mold.
When handling your silicone molds, wearing gloves is recommended.
The best way to store your mold is to wrap in cellophane. This will prevent dust, hair or lint from sticking to your mold.
Store your mold in a cool, dry place.
Store your mold flat. Storing your mold in a bent position, may cause the mold to lose it's correct shape. Make sure molds do not press against each other during storage.
This can occur if your silicone was not mixed properly or if it hadn't cured yet when you removed your Master.
A non- abrasive cloth with a bit of plastics cleaner (Novus #1 or Brillianize) should clean your blank right up. You can also try a Magic Eraser by Mr. Clean.
Using a mold release can help as well.
Using a torch on resin in a silicone mold is not recommended for the health of your mold. Your silicone can become ireversibly damaged. A heat gun in short increments is preferred.
Our Silicone has extremely low viscosity. That means it's really easy to mix but it is also easy to leak out of your housing. Make sure your blank is in a housing that is totally and completely sealed tightly.
Test by pouring a small amount of silicone to check for leaks before pouring in the full amount.
Using a tape-lined cardboard box or a plastic container as your housing can help with preventing leaks.
Yes, you can definitely do that!
That is a great way to get more silicone use out of each kit.
The best way to do that is to shred the pieces thinly and mix it in with your new batch. If you put “chunks" into your mold- they would need to be stabilized or tucked under your object, these larger pieces may float to the surface of the silicone.
Easy Method to calculate:
The easiest way to estimate your silicone requirements (by volume) is to place the model in the chosen container and pour water up and over the model. The amount of water used will be the same amount of silicone you will need. Be careful to remove all water and thoroughly dry all parts before pouring the silicone.
The 4lb silicone kit contains approximately 23.5 cubic inches to pounds.
Note that our silicone is Platinimum cure.
The number one cause for this type of silicone to have cure inhibition is that your master (sculpture) or gloves may contain sulphur. Sulphur may be present in for example: latex, natural rubber, neoprene, PVC, wood, oils and some solvents. Check what your rubber gloves are made of before using with our silicone.
Some metals may also inhibit curing such as; silver, lead and mercury, as well as Tin that may be present in some adhesives and also present in some types of PVC plastic.
Humidity and room temperature may affect your cure as well.
And of course mixing fully and properly measuring ratio by weight.
Store in a cool, dry environment out of ultraviolet light.
Do not use solvents to clean your mold and do not put them in the dishwasher. Make sure your molds are completely dry before storing them.
You can store them in a moisture-proof sealed bag, or Tupperware container.br>Store Silicone Molds between Cardboard. You can stack and layer them right on top of each other