Mix your Art resin in 1:1 ratio.

Mix your Geode Doming resin in 1:1 ratio.

Mix your Masterclass resin in 2:1 ratio.

Stir together slowly for at least 3 minutes.

Let sit for a few minutes for the bubbles to dissipate before pouring.

There is approximately a 30 minute work time before gelling/thickening starts to occur.

Our Art resin is 98% cured after 24 hours and fully cured within 72 hours depending on thickness. Curing time will differ when adding a colorant like alcohol ink.

Our Masterclass Deep Pour Resin:
4-6 hour work time
36-48 hour gel time
48 hour surface touch time
72-96 hour full cure

Unicone Art resin contains UV stabilizers and anti-yellowing properties, it is one of the clearest resins out there.
Any resin will yellow though, if exposed continuously to bright sunlight and UV rays.

Our resin conforms to ASTM D-4236 and REACH standards. Please see our "Resin Safety Statement" above and the safety data linked at the footer of the page.

Our resin has extremely low to no odor!

An open Unicone Art Resin bottle stays fresh for about 6 months, or 2 years if unopened.

Cured Unicone Art resin should not be placed in an environment with temperatures that exceed 120°F Do not place an art piece in an oven or microwave. Use as a coaster is perfectly ok. We do not recommend that you use your art piece as a trivet for something that comes out of the oven.

You can use with hot cups or plates of hot food, but we do not recommend use directly with very hot food.

Do not put your cured item in a microwave, oven or dishwasher.
The maximum temperature should not exceed 50℃ /122℉.

1) The first is to pour your initial layer, cover and wait 5-6 hours until your Resin is really jelling. At this point, you can pour on the next 1/8" layer, cover, wait 5-6 hrs and repeat until you reach the height you desire.

2) The second option is to allow the first layer to fully dry, then give the overall piece a light sanding, and then pour on the next 1/8" layer, cover and let cure. You can repeat this as many times as you like. 

It's recommended to torch or use a heat gun to release the bubbles before adding each layer.

It occurs when there is humidity or slight moisture in the air or in an inclusion that you put in you resin. (flowers or insects that haven't completely dried)

It can also occur if you are curing in an environment that is too cold. Basically - optimal resin working environment is room temperature and low-humidity.

How to prevent it:

Room temperature, approximately 72-77F
Anything below 85% relative humidity is fine.
No dips in temperature during the first 24hrs.

Using a fan heater in the Winter and a dehumidifier in warmer weather can help. Before mixing another batch in a cold environment, you can try slightly warming the resin in a warm water bath first. (Note: this may shorten your work time.) Be aware as well, that using a hot torch in this environment can affect the resin as well.

You can sand to remove the Amine Blushing and re-coat your project with resin or gently buff and polish with clear car wax.

Make sure the surface is completely clean and dry first. For the strongest bond, we suggest lightly sanding the stainless steel with 80 grit sandpaper before coating with the resin epoxy.

Let Resin sit for at least 5 minutes after mixing. The resin will thicken and the bubbles will disperse. 

Oily residue repels resin, so it won't cover the surface.

If your painting contained silicone, it is very important to wipe off excess oil to prepare the surface before spreading on the resin.

A pro tip: you can use baby powder to absorb the oils. Make sure to wipe of excess before pouring your resin.

Crystallization may occur. 

Heat will bring the resin back to a usable state, and the best way to warm the resin is to place the tightly sealed containers into a warm water bath.

There are many ways to color your resin.

1. Mica pigment powders are the number 1 - best way. A dry powder will not affect the curing process.

2. Resin pastes formulated for resin are a beautiful tinting method

3. Acrylic paint - in very small amount is ok. Moisture/water will affect the curing process

4. Acrylic ink is a thinner version of paint and will tint your resin nicely.

5. Alcohol ink dropped in before the resin is poured or after makes 2 beautiful affects "The Petri" is a very popular resin craft.

6. Objects - beads, glitter, sprinkles, flowers and found objects can all be used in your resin.

1-Let the Unicone Resin sit for at least 10-15 minutes to start to thicken up after the resin and hardener are mixed together. Our resin has a thin viscosity and might be pulling away from your tumbler because of that. 

2- How slow is the tumbler rotating? Maybe it’s going slow enough to allow the resin to completely pull away from the surface.

3- Make sure the spray you applied to prime the tumbler doesn’t have anything leaching into the resin to thin it. Wait 24 hours after spraying your tumbler before applying the resin to make sure it’s a completely dry surface. Krylon Triple Glaze Clear Coat is a good brand to try. 

4- Use a heat gun to force bubbles to rise to the surface.

It is best to either...

1. Do a thin skim coat first. This will fill the micro holes and prevent air bubbles forming in your final project.

2. Coat with a base of primer and let completely dry before you resin.

If just a little bit of hardened resin wont come out, place your mold in a hot, soapy water bath (NOT boiling) for a few minutes, the resin should soften and be able to come out.

You can dry your foliage by flattening in a book or if you want the full look, by using silica beads. You can also hang your flowers to dry. Each of these methods will work and offer different results.

Pour Part A into a cup
Pour Part B into a cup
Mix part A
Mix part B
Combine the two parts and then mix for at least 2 minutes (scraping the sides) Making sure you mix completely until you see a uniform color.

Wear safety glasses

Wear vinyl gloves - latex gloves may inhibit the curing process.

Product should be used as soon as possible once opened.

When handling your silicone molds, wearing gloves is recommended.

Store your mold in a cool, dry place.

Store your mold flat. Storing your mold in a bent position, may cause the mold to lose it's correct shape. Make sure molds do not press against each other during storage.

A non- abrasive cloth with a bit of plastics cleaner (Novus #1 or Brillianize) should clean your blank right up. You can also try a Magic Eraser by Mr. Clean.

Using a mold release can help as well.

Test by pouring a small amount of silicone to check for leaks before pouring in the full amount.

The easiest way to estimate your silicone requirements (by volume) is to place the model in the chosen container and pour water up and over the model.
The amount of water used will be the same amount of silicone you will need. Be careful to remove all water and thoroughly dry all parts before pouring the silicone.

Other ingredients that may inhibit the curing process:

Tin: may be present some adhesives and also present in some types of PVC plastic.

* Sulphur compounds: in for example latex, natural rubber, neoprene, PVC, wood, oils and some solvents. May also be present in your protective gloves you are using.

Some metals: such as silver, lead and mercury.

And of course mixing fully and proper measurement ratio by weight.

To coat your model, you can spray: Krylon Preserve It! photo sealer. Wait until completely dry then use a release agent.

Humidity and room temperature may affect your cure as well.