1- Wear gloves! Resin is unhealthy for your skin.
If resin does get on your skin - use a cleanser like our Magical Resin Remover.
It does not contain alcohol, which can be harmful to your skin.
2- When used as directed, our resin does not release fumes. That means when combining the resin and hardener alone, it will not off-gas. If you are adding colorants or other foreign object to your resin - we can not vouch for it's safety. Those additions will change the chemical makeup of our resin.
3- If adding heat to our resin in the form of a heat gun or torch - fumes may be released. When the resin cures, it naturally gives off heat. If that chemical reaction is sped up, fumes may occur.
In the above cases a respirator is recommended. It is also recommended to use our resin in a well-ventilated room. We advise you to use your own judgement and always err on the side of caution.
Safe testing results based on RESINOUS AND POLYMERIC COATINGS – FDA 21 CFR 175.300
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Top Resin Questions
Mix your resin in 1:1 ratio.
Stir the equal amounts of resin and hardener together slowly for at least 3 minutes.
Make sure that you don't see anymore "threading" in the resin mixture and that it is mixed thoroughly.
Let sit for a few minutes for the bubbles to dissipate before pouring.
There is approximately a 30 minute work time before gelling/thickening starts to occur.
Our resin is 98% cured after 24 hours and fully cured within 72 hours depending on thickness. Curing time will differ when adding a colorant like alcohol ink.
Unicone Art resin contains UV stabilizers and anti-yellowing properties, it is one of the clearest resins out there. Any resin will yellow though, if exposed continuously to bright sunlight and UV rays.
Our resin conforms to ASTM D-4236 and REACH standards. Please see our "Resin Safety Statement" above and the safety data linked at the footer of the page.
Our resin has extremely low to no odor!
An open Unicone Art Resin bottle stays fresh for about 6 months, or 2 years if unopened.
Cured Unicone Art resin should not be placed in an environment with temperatures that exceed 120°F Do not place an art piece in an oven or microwave. Use as a coaster is perfectly ok. We do not recommend that you use your art piece as a trivet for something that comes out of the oven.
Our Resin is food safe, as a coaster, platter or serving tray once completely cured.
You can use with hot cups or plates of hot food, but we do not recommend use directly with very hot food.
Do not put your cured item in a microwave, oven or dishwasher.
The maximum temperature should not exceed 50℃ /122℉.
Our resin is a "Hard Resin". It has a Shore hardness of 78D.
1) The first is to pour your initial layer, cover and wait 5-6 hours until your Resin is really jelling. At this point, you can pour on the next 1/8" layer, cover, wait 5-6 hrs and repeat until you reach the height you desire.
2) The second option is to allow the first layer to fully dry, then give the overall piece a light sanding, and then pour on the next 1/8" layer, cover and let cure. You can repeat this as many times as you like.
It's recommended to torch or use a heat gun to release the bubbles before adding each layer.
Cloudy, foggy, film, haze, watermark or slight crackling... It's called "Amine Blushing".
It occurs when there is slight moisture in the air or in an inclusion that you put in you resin. (flowers or insects that haven't completely dried)
It can also occur if you are curing in an environment that is too cold.
Basically - optimal resin working environment is room temperature and low-humidity.
How to prevent it:
Room temperature, approximately 72-77F
Anything below 85% relative humidity is fine.
No drastic dips in temperature during the first 24hrs.
Using a fan heater in the Winter and a dehumidifier in warmer weather can help.
Before mixing another batch in a cold environment, you can try slightly warming the resin in a warm water bath first. (Note: this may shorten your work time.) Be aware as well, that using a hot torch in this environment can affect the resin as well.
Do not mix less than 1oz. of resin and hardener at a time. The exotherm nature will be reduced.
You can sand to remove the Amine Blushing and re-coat your project with resin or gently buff and polish with clear car wax.
Opened containers should be used within 6 months.
Torching your resin can cause scorching, burning and discoloration. Use with care. A heat gun is preferred.
For best results, pour in layers of 1/8 inch in thickness. This will prevent overheating and bubbles. You should not make a piece of art that will be thinner than 1/3 inch - it may not cure properly and will be bendable.
Basically… it depends.
Mixing larger amounts at once will make your resin cure faster.
Resin cures faster when it gets too hot.
When mixing larger batches - this tends to be an issue.
Factors that make the difference- temperature of your environment as well as the size of your mixing cup.
You don’t want to pour too much at once. Pouring in layers of about 1/8 inch at a time is best.
Resin Tips & Tricks
Make sure the surface is completely clean and dry first. For the strongest bond, we suggest lightly sanding the stainless steel with 80 grit sandpaper before coating with the resin epoxy.
Let Resin sit for at least 5 minutes after mixing. The resin will thicken and the bubbles will disperse.
Oily residue repels resin, so it won't cover the surface.
If your painting contained silicone, it is very important to wipe off excess oil to prepare the surface before spreading on the resin.
A pro tip: you can use baby powder to absorb the oils. Make sure to wipe of excess before pouring your resin.
When handling your project, wearing gloves is recommended.
Crystallization may occur.
Heat will bring the resin back to a usable state, and the best way to heat the resin is to place the container in a water bath with water heated to about 125°F.
There are many ways to color your resin.
1. Mica pigment powders are the number 1 - best way. A dry powder will not affect the curing process.
2. Resin pastes formulated for resin are a beautiful tinting method
3. Acrylic paint - in very small amount is ok. Moisture/water will affect the curing process
4. Acrylic ink is a thinner version of paint and will tint your resin nicely.
5. Alcohol ink dropped in before the resin is poured or after makes 2 beautiful affects "The Petri" is a very popular resin craft.
6. Objects - beads, glitter, sprinkles, flowers and found objects can all be used in your resin.
Tumblers are only recommended for very experienced resin artists. Our resin is extremely thin and will slide away from the surface of your tumbler.
1-Let the Unicone Resin sit for at least 10-15 minutes to start to thicken up after the resin and hardener are mixed together. Our resin has a thin viscosity and might be pulling away from your tumbler because of that.
2- How slow is the tumbler rotating? Maybe it’s going slow enough to allow the resin to completely pull away from the surface.
3- Make sure the spray you applied to prime the tumbler doesn’t have anything leaching into the resin to thin it. Wait 24 hours after spraying your tumbler before applying the resin to make sure it’s a completely dry surface. Krylon Triple Glaze Clear Coat is a good brand to try.
4- Use a heat gun to force bubbles to rise to the surface.
It is best to either...
1. Do a thin skim coat first. This will fill the micro holes and prevent air bubbles forming in your final project.
2. Coat with a base of primer and let completely dry before you resin.
If your whole resin piece did not cure properly, it may stick to your silicone mold. Place it in the freezer and you should be able to pop the hardened resin right out.
If just a little bit of hardened resin wont come out, place your mold in a hot, soapy water bath (NOT boiling) for a few minutes, the resin should soften and be able to come out.
Items being put into resin definitely need to be completely dry first.
Anything that has moisture in it will affect the resin curing process as well as the item itself.
The item will continue to decompose, change color and may get moldy as well.
You can dry your foliage by flattening in a book or if you want the full look, by using silica beads. You can also hang your flowers to dry. Each of these methods will work and offer different results.
Mixing your resin slowly and carefully and pouring your resin slowly - will help prevent bubbles. If you have bubbles to get rid of - a heat source like heat gun or torch over your project will help bubble dissipate. A toothpick can easily pop a bubble or two and avoid using heat that may damage your mold.
Items used for a pour painting:
Acrylic paint in a variety of colors
Pouring Medium Formula
Cell Forming Silicone Canvas Mixing sticks
Additional items needed;
Small disposable cups
Optional: heat gun or torch Cell
Instructions for pour technique:
Cover your surface and clothes. Pour painting can be messy.
Choose 3-5 colors from the set to be used in the pour, 2 oz. total
should be enough for your sample canvas.
Use one clean cup for each color choice.
Add 1 part paint to 1 part Pouring Medium Formula. Mix thoroughly.
Add more Pouring Medium, or paint according to your preference.
Add a few drops of Cell-Forming Silicone into each cup and gently stir.
In a clean cup, slowly layer the paint in, alternating contrasting colors.
Once the layering is complete, you have a few options;
Quickly flip the cup onto the canvas. Put canvas face-down on top of the cup and, holding securely, flip them over. The suction will keep the cup in place until you pull it off. Slowly pour the paint over the canvas. This technique creates lovely ribbons of color.
Gently tilt your canvas to distribute the paint.
Use your heat source (optional) to lift up the cells and air bubbles.
Allow canvas to dry for 2-7 days before applying varnish.
Pro Tip 1
Prime your canvas with a coat of acrylic paint. Your pour will slide smoothly across the wet canvas.
Pro Tip 2
When layering your colors, pour the paint down the side of the cup. This technique prevents the colors from mixing too much, and helps maintain crisp color ribbons.
Pro Tip 3
The thinner paint mixture should go into your cup last. When you flip the cup over, the heavier paints will sink to the bottom again. Varying the color’s viscosity helps to create nice cells.
Pro Tip 4
Placing push pins into the under-corners of your canvas will lift it up so paint can drip off freely and the canvas won't stick to your surface.
Pro Tip 5
Once completely dry, spread on some baby powder to absorb excess silicone. Wipe off with a microfiber cloth and seal with your favorite varnish or resin.
Anyone can be an acrylic pour artist – just try it and go with the ‘flow’!
Mold Making Silicone
Easily mixed, 1A:1B by weight. It is best to use a small scale for accuracy.
Pour Part A into a cup
Pour Part B into a cup
Mix part A
Mix part B
Combine the two parts and then mix for at least 2 minutes (scraping the sides) Making sure you mix completely until you see a uniform color.
Work time is 30-40 minutes.
Cure time is 3-5 hours at room temperature.
Use in a properly ventilated area.
Wear safety glasses
Wear vinyl gloves - latex gloves may inhibit the curing process.
Store and use material at room temperature (73°F/23°C).
Warmer temperatures will drastically reduce work and cure time.
Product should be used as soon as possible once opened.
Unopened shelf-life is 12 months when stored properly.
Soap and water will gently clean your mold.
A bit of sticky tape will remove any glitter or lint stuck to you mold.
When handling your silicone molds, wearing gloves is recommended.
The best way to store your mold is to wrap in cellophane. This will prevent dust, hair or lint from sticking to your mold.
Store your mold in a cool, dry place.
Store your mold flat. Storing your mold in a bent position, may cause the mold to lose it's correct shape. Make sure molds do not press against each other during storage.
This can occur if your silicone was not mixed properly or if it hadn't cured yet when you removed your Master.
A non- abrasive cloth with a bit of plastics cleaner (Novus #1 or Brillianize) should clean your blank right up. You can also try a Magic Eraser by Mr. Clean.
Using a mold release can help as well.
Using a torch on resin in a silicone mold is not recommended for the health of your mold. Your silicone can become ireversibly damaged. A heat gun in short increments is preferred.
Our Silicone has extremely low viscosity. That means it's really easy to mix but it is also easy to leak out of your housing. Make sure your blank is in a housing that is totally and completely sealed tightly.
Test by pouring a small amount of silicone to check for leaks before pouring in the full amount.
Yes, you can definitely do that!
That is a great way to get more silicone use out of each kit.
The best way to do that is to shred the pieces thinly and mix it in with your new batch. If you put “chunks" into your mold- they would need to be stabilized or tucked under your object, these larger pieces may float to the surface of the silicone.
Easy Method to calculate:
The easiest way to estimate your silicone requirements (by volume) is to place the model in the chosen container and pour water up and over the model. The amount of water used will be the same amount of silicone you will need. Be careful to remove all water and thoroughly dry all parts before pouring the silicone.
The silicone kit contains approximately 23.5 cubic inches to pounds.
The number one cause is that your master (sculpture) or gloves may contain sulfur.
Humidity and room temperature may affect your cure as well.
And of course mixing fully and proper measurement ratio by volume.