FAQs – unicone-art

1- Wear gloves! Resin is unhealthy for your skin. If resin does get on your skin - use a cleanser like our Magical Resin Remover. It does not contain alcohol, which can be harmful to your skin.

2- When used as directed, our resin does not release fumes. That means when combining the resin and hardener alone, it will not off-gas. If you are adding colorants or other foreign object to your resin - we can not vouch for it's safety. Those additions will change the chemical makeup of our resin.

3- If adding heat to our resin in the form of a heat gun or torch - fumes may be released. When the resin cures, it naturally gives off heat. If that chemical reaction is sped up, fumes may occur.

In the above cases a respirator is recommended. It is also recommended to use our resin in a well-ventilated room. We advise you to use your own judgement and always err on the side of caution.

Safe testing results based on RESINOUS AND POLYMERIC COATINGS – FDA 21 CFR 175.300

Please see the Safety Data section at the footer of each page for safety regarding our other Resin Epoxy selection.

1- You have a presence on Instagram that shows follower devotion.

2- You take beautiful photos of your work and provide awesome content.

3- You tag us and mention @unicone-art in your descriptions.

4- If you think you have what it takes, send us an email or DM.
Subject to approval.

5. If approved ambassadors will receive free products monthly in addition to coupon codes for our site.

Mix your Art resin in 1:1 ratio.

Mix your Geode Doming resin in 1:1 ratio.

Mix your MAsterclass resin in 2:1 ratio.

Stir the equal amounts of resin and hardener together slowly for at least 3 minutes.

Make sure that you don't see anymore "threading" in the resin mixture and that it is mixed thoroughly.

Let sit for a few minutes for the bubbles to dissipate before pouring.

1) The first is to pour your initial layer, cover and wait 5-6 hours until your Resin is really jelling. At this point, you can pour on the next 1/8" layer, cover, wait 5-6 hrs and repeat until you reach the height you desire.

2) The second option is to allow the first layer to fully dry, then give the overall piece a light sanding, and then pour on the next 1/8" layer, cover and let cure. You can repeat this as many times as you like.

It's recommended to torch or use a heat gun to release the bubbles before adding each layer.

Cloudy, foggy, film, haze, watermark or slight crackling... It's called "Amine Blushing".

It occurs when there is slight moisture in the air or in an inclusion that you put in you resin. (flowers or insects that haven't completely dried)

It can also occur if you are curing in an environment that is too cold. Basically - optimal resin working environment is room temperature and low-humidity.

How to prevent it:

Room temperature, approximately 72-77F
Anything below 85% relative humidity is fine.
No drastic dips in temperature during the first 24hrs.

Using a fan heater in the Winter and a dehumidifier in warmer weather can help. Before mixing another batch in a cold environment, you can try slightly warming the resin in a warm water bath first. (Note: this may shorten your work time.) Be aware as well, that using a hot torch in this environment can affect the resin as well.

Do not mix less than 1oz. of resin and hardener at a time. The exotherm nature will be reduced.

You can sand to remove the Amine Blushing and re-coat your project with resin or gently buff and polish with clear car wax.

Basically… it depends. Mixing larger amounts at once will make your resin cure faster. Resin cures faster when it gets too hot.

When mixing larger batches - this tends to be an issue.

Factors that make the difference- temperature of your environment as well as the size of your mixing cup.
You don’t want to pour too much at once. Pouring in layers of about 1/8 inch at a time is best.

Oily residue repels resin, so it won't cover the surface.

If your painting contained silicone, it is very important to wipe off excess oil to prepare the surface before spreading on the resin.

A pro tip: you can use baby powder to absorb the oils. Make sure to wipe of excess before pouring your resin.

When handling your project, wearing gloves is recommended.

There are many ways to color your resin.

1. Mica pigment powders are the number 1 - best way. A dry powder will not affect the curing process.

2. Resin pastes formulated for resin are a beautiful tinting method

3. Acrylic paint - in very small amount is ok. Moisture/water will affect the curing process

4. Acrylic ink is a thinner version of paint and will tint your resin nicely.

5. Alcohol ink dropped in before the resin is poured or after makes 2 beautiful affects "The Petri" is a very popular resin craft.

6. Objects - beads, glitter, sprinkles, flowers and found objects can all be used in your resin.

Tumblers are only recommended for very experienced resin artists. Our resin is extremely thin and will slide away from the surface of your tumbler.

1-Let the Unicone Resin sit for at least 10-15 minutes to start to thicken up after the resin and hardener are mixed together. Our resin has a thin viscosity and might be pulling away from your tumbler because of that.

2- How slow is the tumbler rotating? Maybe it’s going slow enough to allow the resin to completely pull away from the surface.

3- Make sure the spray you applied to prime the tumbler doesn’t have anything leaching into the resin to thin it. Wait 24 hours after spraying your tumbler before applying the resin to make sure it’s a completely dry surface. Krylon Triple Glaze Clear Coat is a good brand to try.

4- Use a heat gun to force bubbles to rise to the surface.

If your whole resin piece did not cure properly, it may stick to your silicone mold. Place it in the freezer and you should be able to pop the hardened resin right out.

If just a little bit of hardened resin wont come out, place your mold in a hot, soapy water bath (NOT boiling) for a few minutes, the resin should soften and be able to come out.

Items being put into resin definitely need to be completely dry first. Anything that has moisture in it will affect the resin curing process as well as the item itself. The item will continue to decompose, change color and may get moldy as well.

You can dry your foliage by flattening in a book or if you want the full look, by using silica beads. You can also hang your flowers to dry. Each of these methods will work and offer different results.

Items used for a pour painting:

Acrylic paint in a variety of colors

Pouring Medium Formula

Cell Forming Silicone
Canvas
Mixing sticks

Additional items needed;

Small disposable cups

Optional: heat gun or torch Cell

Instructions for pour technique:

Cover your surface and clothes. Pour painting can be messy.
Choose 3-5 colors from the set to be used in the pour, 2 oz. total
should be enough for your sample canvas.
Use one clean cup for each color choice.
Add 1 part paint to 1 part Pouring Medium Formula. Mix thoroughly.
Add more Pouring Medium, or paint according to your preference.
Add a few drops of Cell-Forming Silicone into each cup and gently stir.
In a clean cup, slowly layer the paint in, alternating contrasting colors.
Once the layering is complete, you have a few options;
Quickly flip the cup onto the canvas.
Put canvas face-down on top of the cup and, holding securely, flip them over. The suction will keep the cup in place until you pull it off. Slowly pour the paint over the canvas. This technique creates
lovely ribbons of color.
Gently tilt your canvas to distribute the paint.
Use your heat source (optional) to lift up the cells and air bubbles.
Allow canvas to dry for 2-7 days before applying varnish.

Pro Tip 1

Prime your canvas with a coat of acrylic paint. Your pour will slide smoothly across the wet canvas.

Pro Tip 2

When layering your colors, pour the paint down the side of the cup. This technique prevents the colors from mixing too much, and helps maintain crisp color ribbons.

Pro Tip 3

The thinner paint mixture should go into your cup last. When you flip the cup over, the heavier paints will sink to the bottom again. Varying the color’s viscosity helps to create nice cells.

Pro Tip 4

Placing push pins into the under-corners of your canvas will lift it up so paint can drip off freely and the canvas won't stick to your surface.

Pro Tip 5

Once completely dry, spread on some baby powder to absorb excess silicone. Wipe off with a microfiber cloth and seal with your favorite varnish or resin.

Anyone can be an acrylic pour artist – just try it and go with the ‘flow’!

The best way to store your mold is to wrap in cellophane. This will prevent dust, hair or lint from sticking to your mold.

Store your mold in a cool, dry place.

Store your mold flat. Storing your mold in a bent position, may cause the mold to lose it's correct shape. Make sure molds do not press against each other during storage.

Yes, you can definitely do that! That is a great way to get more silicone use out of each kit. The best way to do that is to shred the pieces thinly and mix it in with your new batch. If you put “chunks" into your mold- they would need to be stabilized or tucked under your object, these larger pieces may float to the surface of the silicone.

Easy Method to calculate:

The easiest way to estimate your silicone requirements (by volume) is to place the model in the chosen container and pour water up and over the model.
The amount of water used will be the same amount of silicone you will need. Be careful to remove all water and thoroughly dry all parts before pouring the silicone.

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